11.06.2010

KIRYUYRIK MEN'S FALL/WINTER 2011

I discovered this Japanese label while browsing through The Archive's site. Looks like my favorite store in SF will be picking up this line this season. I really don't know much about this label. The clothes, in general, certainly remind me of one of those rocker-goth labels like Diet Butcher Slim Skin and another Japanese unisex label I honestly cannot recall the name of. Anyway, I am not quite impressed with the collection. It looks more like dropsnap chic than Parisian runway ready to begin with. I particularly abhor the use of fur on the collars of the outerwear and the tacky color combinations. It definitely needs some mentoring from Ann Demeulemeester who did that amazing fuschia color scheme F/W a couple of years back! Also, I am totally not feeling those striped pants and vest combo. It just looks too circa 70s from the tucked in shirt look to the fit of the trousers. Also, I have never liked fleece. So when I saw it  repeatedly on the collection I just bit my tongue. It almost bled! I just think fleece looks plain cheap specially when poorly executed and improperly coordinated to any look. And lastly those hideous flannel over the parka styling (or vice-versa) is not absolutely working for me. It just doesn't look pleasing to the eyes. It looks very contrived and uninspiring. After going through the different looks I just think the collection is not very cohesive with pieces coming from different ends of the spectrum. I can see potential but needs some reworking. I just think the brand needs to figure out which direction to thread as far as what kind of aesthetic it wants to market itself.