1.23.2013

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH A NEW CROSS

I am so excited to introduce A New Cross, a conceptual brand hailing from Colombia, to you guys. I recently had a tete-a-tete with designer Nicolás Rivero regarding his exciting new label. Here he talks about his latest collection, his aesthetics and his beloved country. Read on...


1. What is your latest collection all about?
AB IMO PECTORE - F/W13 (from the bottom of my chest) is a way to show gratitude, a way to give the best of you. To be honest to have the chance to go to Paris and show my work specifically to the target that I always wanted to belong is something that fulfills me with gratitude and pride, so it is a way to show the best in me.The construction of the garments in this collection play along with a multi-layer structure, hidden pockets that leads your hand towards your hearth to keep something meaningful for you, extra layers or double constructions on the jackets and sweaters are some of the details that define the collection. I think that the brand itself is developing its own aesthetic in time and these proverbs just help to guide the simple concepts that I like to magnify. I like to stick to the non-colors, or the monochromatic palette, mostly blacks in different textures in order to maintain the core of the garment clean and keep the attention on the construction and the details that give each piece its own personality and essence. However, in this collection there are a few pieces in deep dark red wine color which I intentionally design as a direct reference to the hearth.


2. What is your style philosophy?
I don’t like to think the objects as seasonal pieces. I´m not really excited about trends, and have never been interested in becoming a trendy hype brand. I design pieces for those who appreciate the construction, concept, details and quality, of objects that function in any time or “season”.
I like to see my collections as an extension of the collection before the one and so on, that is suitable for a different weather, but that contains the same passion for art inspired objects, and thoughtful craftsmanship that I have been taking care ever since I started A NEW CROSS.


3. How did you come up with the name A NEW CROSS? What does it mean?
I took in consideration several things when I came up with the name. I have always been or at least been attracted to spiritual semiotics. Even if I´m not a religious person, religions across the world, rites, and creeds have always attracted my attention. So I see this rites or crosses a path to follow and as a way that people live their life. I wanted to follow “a new path”, I quit my past job and started to follow my dreams. I knew that the way was going to be hard so a cross to carry along the path (when you see it as all the sacrifices that I was willing to make) seems like a good idea/name for the project/journey I was about to start.
The logo of the brand carry some things that I really like. Its designed as a monogram with the 3 letters of the brand A N C in a particular typography that I truly admire. It was created in the mid 70's by Herb Lubalin, names AVANT GARDE GOTHIC. And I also took the spirit of punk rock band logos such as CRASS or CONFLICT. So I think its elegant, mysterious, and punk in a particular way.

4. Can you describe the fashion scene in Bogota?
Well, Colombia in general has a certain taste for "tropical and colorful" which is okay with me. I'm not like "the evil one" or anything because most of my palette is dark but sometimes is hard for me to fit in the market, even in Bogota where the weather is colder and people trend to wear dark color. More than a scene I think I´m happy to be here because of the wide diversity of materials and artisans that I found in these years.

5. Do you have any plans of moving your atelier to a more established city like New York or Paris to get a bigger audience?
Not really right now, I enjoy working in Colombia and the important part of this work is to extend the artisanal craftsmanship to different geographies. But still I´m not closed to the idea of working somewhere else in a future…

6. Can you name the fashion designers who have greatly influenced your work?
Carol Christian Poell, Maurizio Amadei, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Sruli Recht, and Doris Salcedo, Colombian butt not a fashion designer but an artist with a very close approach to garments, fabrics and objects. She have influenced my concepts a lot lately.

7. What is your biggest obstacle being a fashion designer?
Sometimes, as a new face is hard to sell enough to create the next collection, get a profit, and enough to make a sustainable business that keep me of doing things that I don´t want to do.

8. What's next for A NEW CROSS?
We are currently working on our Autumn Winter 2013 which we will present in Paris and Berlin this January. We are really excited to show the collection to a different target than the one we have in Colombia. And hopefully this is going to open a lot of doors in the European and Asian market.

9. Any piece of advice to up-and-coming fashion designers?
If you really want to create meaningful things, call it art, design, architecture, fashion, you really need to get a lot of reading and investigation. I was really surprised that my classmates where not that much into reading and researching, so the final result even if it was well constructed, was empty in concept, so my very best advice to upcoming designers is to fall in love with your profession. Read the history, research on your interests, keep your eyes open and brain filled constantly with new information. You´ll see the evolution of your designs once you look back.

Stay tuned for more photos of A New Cross's Fall/Winter 2013 Collection!

A NEW CROSS is a Colombian brand created in 2009. Their view is to produce garments and accessories with a high conceptual content, using top quality materials, and thoughtful craftsmanship processes.

For more info about A New Cross check out www.anewcross.com.